Brad, I just told Lori that the other day, that the S.S. one aren't working out, and Bill Booz says the same thing. Bill said go to the brass ones, and he is right because I never recall having much troubles with brass and they cost much less.
Its almost like the SS nozzles dont fit into the coupler. Even the brand new ones are terrible. I have dropped so many nozzles off the roof becuase I am struggling to get them off and when they finally do come off, they end up going end over end down the roof?!?!?!?
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Brad R. Iannacchione Soapy Roof, LLC New Kensington, PA 15068
I did talk to Lori this morning as well about this. She said that Hudson makes something for this but she said that they are pretty expensive, relative to the metal ones.
I think she mentioned $25? Heck I would be willing to spend that if it would solve the problem.
Heck, I spend $25/month on WD40 spraying the coupler and tips. LOL!
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Brad R. Iannacchione Soapy Roof, LLC New Kensington, PA 15068
Eliminate as much metal as possible. On my Yamada I have 1/2 inch krynar hose to barb fittings from the tank to the pump and pump to hose that are clamped down. On the spray side I have a brass 1/2 barb to pipe thread which I have a 1/2 inch ball valve attached to then a 1/2" to 1/4" pvc reducer that I screw in my plastic spray tips into. I use one size tip 95% of the time so no need for qc's. I keep the other two screw in tips in my pocket along with a small 9/16 wrench incase I need to change them out. The less metal you use the better of you are. The only reason I use the brass at the ball valve is because of the tension from pulling the hose. Now brass will disinigrate over time and can clog tips but you will not get that rust stain like when you use stainless steel. And for the record I never flush my pump or hose with fresh water.
Use Never Sieze on the moving components of the couplers and plugs. Spraying Systems makes a qc in Kynar or PVDF (same thing).
They are pricey! We have the kynar tips. Guys love them but they wear out when run across the tiles or shingles. It acts like sandpaper on the nozzles.
I went to Menards and bought brass quick releases that are used for pressure washers and built my own and bought brass barbs etc. Just starting up, but they all have worked well so far. I am sure down the road will have to come up with a plan. Bill Booz gave me some good advice about such going forward also.
I got the SS quick connects from Lori and I'm on my last one. I have found that rinsing isn't enough and WD40 doesn't do the trick either. I spray white lithium grease on the quickie and it seems to survive, but I'm looking for something better too.
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Kurt Ristow Above & Beyond Roof & Exterior Cleaning Frankfort, IN 46041 cell #765-242-9113
I'm having similar challenges as well. Yesterday, instead of ordering a 'good' SS quick connect for $11, it was suggested that I order 3 or so of the cheap Chinese imports at $3.09 a piece and simply toss them as they got corroded. Sounded good to me so that's what I've done for now, as I DO change tips frequently.
I recall the gentleman from PA that no longer posts (Jeff?) had mentioned in a post a while back that he had a simple set up to soak his quick connects/couplers etc in a vinegar solution at the end of each day. A vendor suggested soaking them in motor oil.
Roof Cleaning Northern Virginia (571) 250 9650 wrote:
I'm having similar challenges as well. Yesterday, instead of ordering a 'good' SS quick connect for $11, it was suggested that I order 3 or so of the cheap Chinese imports at $3.09 a piece and simply toss them as they got corroded. Sounded good to me so that's what I've done for now, as I DO change tips frequently.
I recall the gentleman from PA that no longer posts (Jeff?) had mentioned in a post a while back that he had a simple set up to soak his quick connects/couplers etc in a vinegar solution at the end of each day. A vendor suggested soaking them in motor oil.
Soaking them may be a good idea. We used some cheap stainless quick connects, and they actually lasted longer than the name brand ones. Havn't really figured out what the difference was. We are going to just use brass for now, and see if the green corrosion allows them to still work.
I would think a PVDF nozzle would break easily. Kynar is kind of brittle for this kind of application.