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Post Info TOPIC: Yes, Borax Is Safe To Mix Into Your Roof Cleaning Mix


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RE: Yes, Borax Is Safe To Mix Into Your Roof Cleaning Mix
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Here's an interesting article on Sh and CH:

Okay guys, I was a company GM in the chlorine manufacturing business for about 12 years, running out about 6 million gallons of 5.25% S hypo or laundry bleach (manufactured at 6.0% for shelf life purposes), about a half million gallons of 12% stock or pool shock (manufactured at 15%), and 7 million gallons of 15% manufactured for bulk shipment only for largely the paper/pulp industry (manufactured at 18%). Our specifications had to be exact because we were dealing with companies that also tested our products on the other end, the government weights and measures, the EPA and a variety of other agencies who were pretty much always looking to decapitate someone.

Here's the deal. There are reasons each of these products is made different from the others instead of having one product and telling the consumer to dilute. Cal hypo and S hypo aren't the same thing plus or minus water. They accomplish some of the same things that are being discussed, but there are many other considerations and how each product will react doing different jobs.

Because of the nature of the finished product, there are no straight line measures of degradation. The stronger the solution in liquid form, the faster it degrades. Household bleach (5.25%) is only made at 6.0%, but has a guaranteed shelf life of 6 mos, but a realistic shelf life under ideal conditions of 12 months. S hypo pool shock (same product as household but stronger) has to be made at 3% higher than stated value, but because of it's concentration, but will lose that whole 3% within 30 days, and would be down to about 8.5% (a little more than household bleach) plus a lot of salt in 6 months.

Cal hypo is VERY stable until you add water. Then it becomes VERY unstable. It will start to degrade almost immediately. The chlorine starts to come out within minutes and will be very smelly and potentially dangerous within hours. Given the right conditions, it can and I've made it blow up a sealed container. Metal equipment in the area will be attacked by the fumes, and it will sink to the floor level and can cause serious injury to animals or children at floor level.

Cal hypo doesn't really want to dissolve that well either, and when it does, calcium tends to precipitate out and it gets really pretty nasty. The dissolve rate depends on the temperature of the water is being put into. You'll get little dissolve rate at 40 degrees, much more at 70 and much higher at 90. However, the temp of the solution is a strong factor in how fast it becomes unstable. 90 degree household bleach would be smelly, but 90 degree cal hypo will run your butt out of the house.

Also reread your cal hypo labels to learn what you have. It may say 99% cal hypo, but what's important is the available chlorine which is usually 59-65%. It might also be helpful to know what the buffers are in there as well. Not all cal hypos break down the same, and some will leave you with nasty results. Calcium that precipitates out and is left to sit can become very sticky to resemble a highly toxic rubber cement like product that sticks to your pipes and grabs anything that goes by. If you don't have perfectly drained pipes, plan to replace these when the calcium eventually turns the pipe into a solid mass of calcium glue and whatever goes down that drain. Nope! Draino doesn't cut that.

If you want rough equivalants for doing something quickly, you have to know what product you have and when it was produced because the difference between fresh product and 30 day old product can be as much as 25% when it comes to S hypo. But figure that 1 gallon of pool S hypo = 1# of cal hypo = 2 gallons of household bleach.

Cal hypo dilutions can also be very dangerous depending upon what your water chemistry is. If it's a low pH or has metals in it, it will degrade quickly and sometimes violently. Cal hypo plus water is also known to get very hot quickly depending on the right conditions. That won't matter under normal use conditions for the product like when it's added at 1 lb per 10,000 gallons of pool water, but if your water isn't very good and you add a couple of gallons to a pound of cal hypo in a bucket, a reaction is possible if not probable.

My recommendation is to use cal hypo for your pool, cleaning concrete, and that's about that. Keep some around for emergency sanitizer, but save yourself from a hospital visit.


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Raystown Roof Cleaning Central PA 1-800-236-0322 wrote:

I would be more interested in this augmenting idea if it wasn't going to leave a mess in my tank. I still may try it in a bucket and do a trial spray to see the effectiveness of the mix. Then worry about the mess.

Chris, CH appeals to me more than you simply because I have to buy SH in 53 gallon barrels, and unload them onto a barrel stand,..I can't just pull up and throw a hose in a tank like you Fla. guys can. If CH becomes a suitable substitute I would be all for it,...If nothing else AC is keeping me interested in the whole idea.

Jeff


 CH does have some advantages Jeff as far as not leaving a salt residue, but it will still kill plants. 

It is not like the CH evaporates to ONLY Calcium.

When working with ANY type of Acid or Oxidizer around plants, one must always be careful!

MadSci Network: BotanyQuery:  

Subject: Why does chlorine kill plant???

Date: Sun Jun 6 12:18:35 1999
Posted by Chris@Apple Roof Cleaning
Grade level: teacher/prof School: Roof cleaners institute
City: Brandon State/Province: Fl Country: 33510
Area of science: Botany
ID: 928689515.Bt


Message:

WE use chlorine to clean roofs of mildew and algae.
If we rinse it off, or leave it on for the rain to rinse it 
makes plants turn yelow, drop leaves, etc!
Is there any feasable way to neutralize the chlorine, or 
anything we can do to protect the plants and the environment?


 

Re: Why does chlorine kill plant???

Like you said Jeff, CH is not needed by us Florida Roof Cleaners, who just pull up, and get our tanks filled with the good and fresh SH.

Plus, I made a choice years ago not to sell any roof cleaning equipment or chemicals.

I wanted my advice to be the best roof cleaning advice possible, and not based on what chemical or equipment I was trying to Pimp at the time.

So Jeff, since I have zero need for CH, and don't sell anything, making CH work for roof cleaning has not exactly been a priority for me.

However, I think the final answer to making the CH work will be a chemical addition to it to prevent the well known scale, as well as an activator for it, to make it clean better.

Of course, this will be in addition to good filtering of the well known sediment.

The approach AC has taken is not w/o merit. The Softwash Systems Powdered Bleach Option for their skids is "another way to skin the cat", and to solve the CH Scale problem.

Though somewhat complex and expensive compared to a simple chemical scale inhibitor for the powdered bleach (CH), one must consider the other advantages of it.

That is, to have a decent supply of Reverse Osmosis Water, whenever it is needed. 

Jeff, 95% of my business is cleaning roofs ONLY.

So, there is no need for us to clean windows on the house of a roof we have just done.

Rather then pick up a few hundred dollars cleaning the windows, we simply drive to the next big tile roof cleaning job, and pick up 850.00.

But, for a roof cleaning company with less work then we have, it is a great idea, and an easy way to pick up some extra money.

All made possible by the Softwash Systems Powdered Bleach Option on site generated Reverse Osmosis water, feeding one of these water fed poles.

 

 

 

 



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Yea Chris,..I won't be buying any special equipment. If I could get CH to work with equal effort as SH I would be all for it. I basically want a mix and apply, otherwise I will just stick with SH bought in 53 gallon barrels,...I like the Univar girls anyhow,Ha,Ha,..

Jeff

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Raystown Roof Cleaning Central PA 1-800-236-0322 wrote:

Yea Chris,..I won't be buying any special equipment. If I could get CH to work with equal effort as SH I would be all for it. I basically want a mix and apply, otherwise I will just stick with SH bought in 53 gallon barrels,...I like the Univar girls anyhow,Ha,Ha,..

Jeff


 Sorry for the late reply Jeff. 

First, you need to figure out if the local water you plan to use is Hard, or Soft. If it is soft, you are home free, so to speak.

Why Is Water Neutral pH?

The chemical formula for water usually is written as H2O, but another way to consider the formula is HOH, where a positively charged hydrogen ion H+ is bonded to a negatively charged hydroxide ion OH-. This means water has properties of both an acid and a base, where the properties essentially cancel each other out.

H+ + (OH)- = HOH = H2O = water

pH of Drinking Water

Although the pH of pure water is 7, drinking water and natural water exhibits a pH range because it contains dissolved minerals and gases. Surface waters typically range from pH 6.5 to 8.5 while groundwater ranges from pH 6 to 8.5.

Water with a pH less than 6.5 is considered acidic. This water typically is corrosive and soft. It may contain metal ions, such as copper, iron, lead, manganese and zinc. The metal ions may be toxic, may produce a metallic taste, and can stain fixtures and fabrics. The low pH can damage metal pipes and fixtures.

Water with a pH higher than 8.5 is considered basic or alkaline. This water often is hard water, containing ions that can form scale deposits in pipes and contribute an alkali taste.

 

 

 

 

One way to figure out how to do something, is to see how others have already done it. There are several US Patents on the subject of chemically eliminating the scale formation of the Powdered Bleach, also called CH.

Here is the abstract of one of them:

Method for inhibiting scale formation using calcium H compositions
US 5004549 A
ABSTRACT
A solid calcium H composition contains hydrated calcium H and an alkali metal salt of phosphonobutane polycarboxylic acid having an available chlorine concentration of at least 50 percent by weight and a water content of at least 4 percent by weight.
It has been found that the use of the novel compositions of the present invention can significantly reduce scale formation in dispensers for calcium H particularly where water having high total alkalinity is used. The prevention or inhibition of scale formation is accomplished without harmfully affecting other properties of the pool water such as the pH.

 

 



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Being a bathtub wizard could be profitable, perhaps I should start selling yellow rubber ducks.

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Raystown Roof Cleaning Central PA 1-800-236-0322 wrote:

Yea Chris,..I won't be buying any special equipment. If I could get CH to work with equal effort as SH I would be all for it. I basically want a mix and apply, otherwise I will just stick with SH bought in 53 gallon barrels,...I like the Univar girls anyhow,Ha,Ha,..

Jeff


 Calcium H can be some really nasty stuff,. as can be seen in this video. 

 

 

 



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This maybe little off topic. I had a conversation the other day about a guy that just spent about $14,000.00 for a soft wash set up. The sad part he took out a second mortgage on his house to do so. He is calling around now on how to market roof cleaning. Poor guy hasn't even cleaned a roof yet. Look I am all for anyone that wants to do business but this type of hype is way out in left field. What is going on in this industry?

I am not the brightest light bulb in the box but not the dimmest either. Have some gone to the point of selling hopes and dreams?

I am all about marketing and can do a good job of it but I also back up my marketing with results. I really felt bad for this guy. Anyone that has started a roof cleaning service knows it isn't easy and the new and improved isn't going to put money in your pocket! Marketing and branding will only do that. How about the K.I.S.S. principle. What's wrong with the equipment and mixes that has been around for years and is proven?

I get it, some buy with emotions and not common sense. That's life.

I remember when I started with a used truck I had and under $1,400.00 for equipment and cleaned many a roofs with that. Also, good ole SH, water and surfactant. Customers were happy, happy, happy!

Oh I forgot this. SH won't kill plants. Only the person using it will!



-- Edited by Central Iowa Roof Cleaning on Tuesday 18th of February 2014 04:14:25 PM

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Central Iowa Roof Cleaning wrote:

This maybe little off topic. I had a conversation the other day about a guy that just spent about $14,000.00 for a soft wash set up. The sad part he took out a second mortgage on his house to do so. He is calling around now on how to market roof cleaning. Poor guy hasn't even cleaned a roof yet. Look I am all for anyone that wants to do business but this type of hype is way out in left field. What is going on in this industry?

I am not the brightest light bulb in the box but not the dimmest either. Have some gone to the point of selling hopes and dreams?

I am all about marketing and can do a good job of it but I also back up my marketing with results. I really felt bad for this guy. Anyone that has started a roof cleaning service knows it isn't easy and the new and improved isn't going to put money in your pocket! Marketing and branding will only do that. How about the K.I.S.S. principle. What's wrong with the equipment and mixes that has been around for years and is proven?

I get it, some buy with emotions and not common sense. That's life.

I remember when I started with a used truck I had and under $1,400.00 for equipment and cleaned many a roofs with that. Also, good ole SH, water and surfactant. Customers were happy, happy, happy!

Oh I forgot this. SH won't kill plants. Only the person using it will!



-- Edited by Central Iowa Roof Cleaning on Tuesday 18th of February 2014 04:14:25 PM


 This "Industry" has been "sold out" a long time ago by some people,  whose main objective is to line their pockets, vs really helping our newcomers.

 

 

 



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I put total blame on the guy who bought without researching, he could have been well aware of the simplicity if he had been patient. The guy selling was doing just that,...selling.

Yes, a pump, tank, some garden hose and a simple mix would have made him money,..instead he spent money,...and if this is the CH soft wash unit,..he's in for a rough ride I think. My advice to him would be: DO NOT USE IT sell it at a loss if necessary,.. Tell him to learn the simple way before going any further.

I've said it numerous times,..this is simple work that everyone including me has tried to make the "perfect" mix or design or what have you. BUT,..I have learned to quit trying to advance by leaps and bounds,..I still may tweak here and there,..but nothing major,..although,..I am done messing with mix additives. I use the original on bad roofs,..(Water,SH,TSP)................on basic roofs I use Water, SH and S Bicarbonate.

Jeff

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Raystown Roof Cleaning Central PA 1-800-236-0322 wrote:

I put total blame on the guy who bought without researching, he could have been well aware of the simplicity if he had been patient. The guy selling was doing just that,...selling.

Yes, a pump, tank, some garden hose and a simple mix would have made him money,..instead he spent money,...and if this is the CH soft wash unit,..he's in for a rough ride I think. My advice to him would be: DO NOT USE IT sell it at a loss if necessary,.. Tell him to learn the simple way before going any further.

I've said it numerous times,..this is simple work that everyone including me has tried to make the "perfect" mix or design or what have you. BUT,..I have learned to quit trying to advance by leaps and bounds,..I still may tweak here and there,..but nothing major,..although,..I am done messing with mix additives. I use the original on bad roofs,..(Water,SH,TSP)................on basic roofs I use Water, SH and S Bicarbonate.

Jeff


 He may Have done his research Jeff, but just done it in the wrong places, on the wrong forums! Some of these forums read like one big Infomercial. These Infomercial forums create a "feeding frenzy" that sucks people into buying the overpriced crap that they sell.

 

 



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This guy went and bought a $14,000 machine for a service he's never provided,..sorry,..but that's his fault. If he buys into the hype of a "GREAT" machine that will make him millions of dollars,....that is also his fault. If he didn't take the time to find alternate ideas,..then he didn't really do research,..he stopped by a "seminar".

Unless it's a 70+ senior citizen who is frightened and lied to into a sale, or a minor who is sold something on dreams,..I will always blame the buyer,....
Me,..I will never be "sold" anything,...I buy stuff.

Jeff

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Raystown Roof Cleaning Central PA 1-800-236-0322 wrote:

This guy went and bought a $14,000 machine for a service he's never provided,..sorry,..but that's his fault. If he buys into the hype of a "GREAT" machine that will make him millions of dollars,....that is also his fault. If he didn't take the time to find alternate ideas,..then he didn't really do research,..he stopped by a "seminar".

Unless it's a 70+ senior citizen who is frightened and lied to into a sale, or a minor who is sold something on dreams,..I will always blame the buyer,....
Me,..I will never be "sold" anything,...I buy stuff.

Jeff


 LOL, this picture says it all TaCKZEO.jpg



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Back to the topic of borax being safe for a moment. Borax is S tetraborate. Any reason for/against using the box containing S carbonate? It's the yellow box usually next to borax labeled as a super washing soda(I'm assuming most of you know what this is so I wont say the name brand). Just curious if anyone has tried this in the mix and if it makes a difference good or bad or if its basically the same thing. Thanks...

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Raystown Roof Cleaning Central PA 1-800-236-0322 wrote:

This guy went and bought a $14,000 machine for a service he's never provided,..sorry,..but that's his fault. If he buys into the hype of a "GREAT" machine that will make him millions of dollars,....that is also his fault. If he didn't take the time to find alternate ideas,..then he didn't really do research,..he stopped by a "seminar".

Unless it's a 70+ senior citizen who is frightened and lied to into a sale, or a minor who is sold something on dreams,..I will always blame the buyer,....
Me,..I will never be "sold" anything,...I buy stuff.

Jeff


 There's a sucker born every day. Eventually they grow up and do things such as this. Sounds like he bought into the hype (literally), tried doing to much to fast, and now he's stuck with some expensive equipment sitting in the driveway. Why someone would take a second mortgage out to buy equipment used in about a trade they know nothing about is beyond me. I can say that because I started from nothing, did my research, asked a few questions, did some trial and error, built my own rig, and now I'm in a good place. And I sure didn't spend $14,000 doing it.



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Hey Kevin, S Carbonate(AKA) Washing Soda, is a good detergent on its own and is a good water softener. It has a solubility issue if tried to dissolve alot at a time, turns into little "rocks" in the bottom of the tank. But, it is a good detergent and could be added to a roof mix if done properly. Will not create alot of soap bubbles though if that's part of what you like. Get the finest granular form you can find. Univar sells it in 50 Lb. bags in different grades.

Jeff

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Stay Clean wrote:

Back to the topic of borax being safe for a moment. Borax is S tetraborate. Any reason for/against using the box containing S carbonate? It's the yellow box usually next to borax labeled as a super washing soda(I'm assuming most of you know what this is so I wont say the name brand). Just curious if anyone has tried this in the mix and if it makes a difference good or bad or if its basically the same thing. Thanks...


 Washing Soda can be used, because it is ALKALINE (at a high PH).

 

 



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Stay Clean wrote:
Raystown Roof Cleaning Central PA 1-800-236-0322 wrote:

This guy went and bought a $14,000 machine for a service he's never provided,..sorry,..but that's his fault. If he buys into the hype of a "GREAT" machine that will make him millions of dollars,....that is also his fault. If he didn't take the time to find alternate ideas,..then he didn't really do research,..he stopped by a "seminar".

Unless it's a 70+ senior citizen who is frightened and lied to into a sale, or a minor who is sold something on dreams,..I will always blame the buyer,....
Me,..I will never be "sold" anything,...I buy stuff.

Jeff


 There's a sucker born every day. Eventually they grow up and do things such as this. Sounds like he bought into the hype (literally), tried doing to much to fast, and now he's stuck with some expensive equipment sitting in the driveway. Why someone would take a second mortgage out to buy equipment used in about a trade they know nothing about is beyond me. I can say that because I started from nothing, did my research, asked a few questions, did some trial and error, built my own rig, and now I'm in a good place. And I sure didn't spend $14,000 doing it.


 There are some very very Slick operators (Con Men) in our Industry. Some of these operators were most likely good Fisherman as well! 

A good Fisherman uses Chum to attract fish, and create a feeding frenzy. Often, big fish get all caught up in this feeding frenzy, and wind up becoming dinner for the fisherman.

Likewise, these Con Men in our industry are quite adept at creating events and situations designed to part someone with his money.

This person who bought the 14,000 skid most likely got all caught up in the hype ( he drank too much kool aid), and now, he is screwed!

TaCKZEO.jpg

He is the "proud owner" of an overpriced and over complicated piece of equipment, for a service he does not even know how to market.

 

 



-



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My wife keeps stealing my borax she uses it in her was, she puts it on the windowsills to kill the sugar ants here in Florida go figure. At least I know to check before I leave with my rig.

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