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Post Info TOPIC: 12v pumps bypasses and pressure switches


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12v pumps bypasses and pressure switches
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Thought I would revive this topic and point it to a few discusions from the past.
This is information that alot of the newer guys don't have.


Regulators and Bypass valves on 12v Systems

More Discussions about 12v and bypass valves.

What I'm talking about specifically is this:You do not want to have your 12v pump constantly cycle on/off.
You do not want to have your pump running at higher than recommended psi, that is to say that a fatboy for instance should not run at 100 psi. The recommended psi is 60. To much back pressure causes issues, namely pump death.

Using the appropriate nozzles are a start but there are times when that #60 is way too much flow. But if you click in a #10 your pump will cycle on/off and you run a high risk of burning up either the pressure switch or the pump itself.

Using a bypass valve in line will keep your pump running at the same pressure (say 60 psi) all day long even if you dropped down to a #4. It'll simply bypass back into the tank to keep the backpressure down.

I have mine set up this way and it works for us.

The pump runs nice and cool all day long and a deep cycle battery is plenty for a full days work.

SO...Let's open this up to discussion.
Questions, answers, comments, opinions; let them fly!



-- Edited by Matthew on Thursday 24th of February 2011 05:47:41 PM for link breakage and formatting

-- Edited by Matthew on Thursday 24th of February 2011 05:48:23 PM for spelling

-- Edited by Matthew on Thursday 24th of February 2011 05:49:19 PM

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Sounds interesting I have not had a issue with my pump getting hot at all, I run 5/8 kuri and a 5850 with 3 diff nozzles


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Matthew wrote:

Thought I would revive this topic and point it to a few discusions from the past.
This is information that alot of the newer guys don't have.

Regulators and Bypass valves on 12v Systems

More Discussions about 12v and bypass valves.

What I'm talking about specifically is this:You do not want to have your 12v pump constantly cycle on/off.
You do not want to have your pump running at higher than recommended psi, that is to say that a fatboy for instance should not run at 100 psi. The recommended psi is 60. To much back pressure causes issues, namely pump death.

Using the appropriate nozzles are a start but there are times when that #60 is way too much flow. But if you click in a #10 your pump will cycle on/off and you run a high risk of burning up either the pressure switch or the pump itself.

Using a bypass valve in line will keep your pump running at the same pressure (say 60 psi) all day long even if you dropped down to a #4. It'll simply bypass back into the tank to keep the backpressure down.

I have mine set up this way and it works for us.

The pump runs nice and cool all day long and a deep cycle battery is plenty for a full days work.

SO...Let's open this up to discussion.
Questions, answers, comments, opinions; let them fly!



-- Edited by Matthew on Thursday 24th of February 2011 05:47:41 PM for link breakage and formatting

-- Edited by Matthew on Thursday 24th of February 2011 05:48:23 PM for spelling

-- Edited by Matthew on Thursday 24th of February 2011 05:49:19 PM

 




Hi Matthew.  Great topic.  Bill B touched on this briefly with me on the phone the other day.  Please confirm - with a bypass, can you throttle the 12v Delavan way back without any cycling or damage?  That would seem to me to be the desired result of a bypass.

Also, if so, how long do the springs in the bypass valve last?  Bill explained briefly that they were the weak link for those that have experimented in the past.  I'm very interested in this if it is indeed viable as it appears to be for you.

Along these lines, Delavan has a variable 12V pump, albeit low gpm.  That too has peaked my interest.

 



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Yes you can adjust the bypass valve.

If you're worried about the spring you can make a manual bypass valve out of a 3-way banjo ball valve but this takes some finess and not recommended for employee use as it's not idiot proof.

The ss springs should last as long as the pump if treated well and rinsed often.


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Do you have to have a valve? or just a T in the line so that when you close the ball valve it just pumps back into the tank. Kinda like a bypass on a PW?

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No with a tee there is no way to control how much pressure you get at the gun. The flow would simply take the path of least resistance.


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Yea after I thought about it that makes sence. My 5850 was cycling on and off today for some reason and I thought about bypassing it. 5850 5/8 hose 4030, 0040 and 4050 all cycled on and off .... never did it before but did it today...

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Treasure Coast Roof Cleaning wrote:

Yea after I thought about it that makes sence. My 5850 was cycling on and off today for some reason and I thought about bypassing it. 5850 5/8 hose 4030, 0040 and 4050 all cycled on and off .... never did it before but did it today...




Hey Ryan,

 

I hope all is well in FL.

I just bought one of these to plumb in-line with my 5850.

http://www.pressuretek.com/flactamo30.html

 

Chris



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SP Cleaning wrote:

 

Treasure Coast Roof Cleaning wrote:

Yea after I thought about it that makes sence. My 5850 was cycling on and off today for some reason and I thought about bypassing it. 5850 5/8 hose 4030, 0040 and 4050 all cycled on and off .... never did it before but did it today...




Hey Ryan,

 

I hope all is well in FL.

I just bought one of these to plumb in-line with my 5850.

http://www.pressuretek.com/flactamo30.html

 

Chris

 



Hi Chris,
I would be very interested in hearing what you think of this after you get to try it out some!
Thanks,
Chuck

 



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I looked into accumulator tanks and decided they wouldn't work for me.

They're fine if you run wide open on the top 2/3 of the rof and want to kick back a little on the ball valve as you get close to the edge of the roof.

But for barrel tile I restrict the flow too much for an accumulator to be as effective as bypass.

Scott from confident uses them though. Maybe ask him.

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I bypassed it today and it seems to be working good, got the valve from Tractor Supply... To be honest I kinda winged it because I couldn't find a diagram online anywhere on hooking it up the right way. And the kid at the store didn't know much. I'll post a pic in a few min.

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Treasure Coast Roof Cleaning wrote:

I bypassed it today and it seems to be working good, got the valve from Tractor Supply... To be honest I kinda winged it because I couldn't find a diagram online anywhere on hooking it up the right way. And the kid at the store didn't know much. I'll post a pic in a few min.



I really need to see this

 



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pump.jpg

Blue hose on left goes to reel and clear goes to tank... How bad did I do? 

-- Edited by Treasure Coast Roof Cleaning on Sunday 27th of February 2011 08:41:59 PM

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aaron61 wrote:

Treasure Coast Roof Cleaning wrote:

I bypassed it today and it seems to be working good, got the valve from Tractor Supply... To be honest I kinda winged it because I couldn't find a diagram online anywhere on hooking it up the right way. And the kid at the store didn't know much. I'll post a pic in a few min.



I really need to see this

 



haha

 



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Thanks Ryan


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um well....

I'll give you a b- lol
Just kidding, it looks like you did it right.

IT probably doesn't matter but you may want to try and stand that thing up.

I'll put up a pic of mine is a second.



5485266889_f68d40cc2d.jpg

As it leaves the tank and  before it gets to the hose reel.

I had to plug mine yesterday because my pressure guage was leaking.
They don't like the SH. Try to find a pressure guage that can handle the oxidation better.

-- Edited by Matthew on Monday 28th of February 2011 09:24:54 AM

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B-.... Man your rough. Not sure what happened today but I blew 2 fuses, it sounded like it was running fine and it was pumping fine but just died. I have it set at 60 psi.

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Matthew wrote:
I had to plug mine yesterday because my pressure guage was leaking.
They don't like the SH. Try to find a pressure guage that can handle the oxidation better.


You had me going after your 1st post.  I was wondering how the heck you plumbed in a pressure guage to measure the 60 psi that would hold up to SH.  If you figure how, please let us know.

 



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I think I figured it out. One of my guys was toting with the set screw on the 5850 and striped it when he had cranked it all the way in. Not sure if that was the problem but I hooked a new pump up today and it worked good so far.

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