My name is Chris I am located in Eastern, PA. I am new to this website and the roof cleaning industry. With that being said this is the best website I have every had the pleasure to be a part of "you guys are great". My main business is 85%waterproofing & 15% pressure washing and I am extremely excited to be adding roof cleaning to my portfolio.
I am in the process of setting up my rig and was wondering if anyone has ordered a tank from Plastic-Mart? I apologize in advance if this has been discussed before but I was unable to find anything on this topic.
I am looking to order a tank form 110 to 200 gallons. What specifically should I be looking for in a tank in addition to size & UV protection.
Thanks in advance for your help.
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Chris Bair
Affinity Property Solutions, LLC. Your Property is Our Priority! 267-446-8707
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. There is so much information on this site it is almost confusing.
Welcome Chris of Affinity to the Roof Cleaning Institute Of America!
Here are the BASIC rules.
The GOLDEN RULE APPLIES HERE
After that.....
Read, Read, Read and Read some more.
Post when you cannot find the info you are looking for or have questions that are roof cleaning specific or are unable to be found elsewhere.
Keep it clean (posting and responses) and be open minded?
Please remain professional at ALL times, except in the IN THE SHADE section where we cut up and we are able to have some fun and just chat.
Be able to accept constructive criticism.
PLEASE be able to give as well as receive info and advice.
You will learn a great deal here about MORE than just how to clean a roof, although you will gain that knowledge here also.
I am sorry I didn't catch you as you registered but we have had over 200 people register in the last several days since REQUIRING formal sign up and membership.
All the BEST,
David-
RCIA Assistant Administrator
-- Edited by Roof Clean USA Georgia 229-227-0000 on Wednesday 22nd of April 2009 09:44:08 PM
Never have ordered from Plastic-Mart, mostly just from tank depot. As long as it is the same tank shouldn't make a differance, unless the price, cheaper is nice. Welcome to the RCIA, take it all in.
-- Edited by PrestigePressure on Wednesday 22nd of April 2009 09:05:42 PM
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Prestige Pressure Washing and Roof Cleaning Roof Cleaning Dayton Ohio Pressure Washing Dayton OH 888-477-9274 Proudly Cleaning Ohio & Indiana since 2007 4633 W Wenger Rd. Clayton, OH 45315
1. Buy a tank that is called a saddle tank or a LEG tank.
2. Buy a tank or tanks, without a bulkhead in the Bottom leg or side of tank.
3. Install a bulkhead in the top of the tank and center it above the graduated gallon indicators, then when mounting tanks, mount the indicators facing forward.
4. Build PVC down tubes lading up to bulkheads and a trash filter on bottom of draw tubes.
5. Make sure tubes are 2"-3" from inside of tank floor
6. Get Galvanized Metal Hoops or Straps or go with SEMI Truck ratchet straps. (Make sure if you use web straps to monitor for sun damage or strength loss over time)
7. Poly tanks with UV inhibitor molded within the POLYPRO are best.
8. Avoid glass filled POLY tanks as Sodium Hypochlorite can degrade these type of tank materials over time.
9. Ask if tank mfr. approves the tank for mobile use with a chemical such as SH If so, then you are pretty well "Good to GO"
Hope this helps.
-- Edited by Roof Clean USA Georgia 229-227-0000 on Wednesday 22nd of April 2009 09:26:31 PM
I justed looked at Tractor Supply's website & it would seem that they might have a tank that is compatible to Tank Depots. Tractor Supply's price is a little higher then Tank Depot but the shipping from Tank Depot is a killer.
I will have to check the chemical compounds.
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Chris Bair
Affinity Property Solutions, LLC. Your Property is Our Priority! 267-446-8707
i have the 250 gallon tank but i use it for water only. I know they have 100 gallon and 150 gallon that should be compatable for storage of the mix while you are on the job and between.
I've used these tanks for a long time also with out issue. I think there are issues though with leaking,...and it's due to the gasket at the bulkhead. I think it is probably also more common with the larger tanks that have more weight continually pushing on an inferior gasket material. Just speculating though, as I've seen both reports over the years about these bulkheads,...I just think everyone has different experiences is all.
Hi and Welcome Chris. You have found the right place, some of the proffesionals here have been doing this for 20yrs or more. Dave loves to give those long detailed answers and we all love him for it. (Thanks DAVE!!) Just wanted to say that craigslist and ebay are a good way to look for used tanks. I found some 350gallon tanks cheap, but I will most likley be using one for water and holding the other as an extra. They are too big, not uv resitant and have valves in them. But give it a shot, can't hurt to look for used tanks in your area. I was raised in South Central PA (Thomasville 17364) and we had alot of farmers around there. Same deal here on the Delmarva Penninsula 21636. Good luck and please let us know what you are building and how it works out.
Raystown Roof Cleaning Central PA 1-800-236-0322 wrote:
I've used these tanks for a long time also with out issue. I think there are issues though with leaking,...and it's due to the gasket at the bulkhead. I think it is probably also more common with the larger tanks that have more weight continually pushing on an inferior gasket material. Just speculating though, as I've seen both reports over the years about these bulkheads,...I just think everyone has different experiences is all.
Jeff
Jeff and Scott and everyone else,
I sometimes play the devil's advocate here on the RCIA board. Most of the time I let others bicker and fuss over the details and let the chips fall where they may.
Occasionally I really need to put my foot down and EXPLAIN myself.
This is ONE of those times.
The chance of a Bulkhead leaking over time with the inevitability of being in constant contact with the chemical components we mix and use for roof cleaning is very good over time.
Each of us has our way of use and the way the tank is mounted may come into play? Some of our different views are based on experience, others on hearsay, and still other information trickles down through the grapevine, sometimes getting distorted in ways OVER time.
Here is my take on this whole subject.
First off, More SLOSH may provide higher pressure levels at the bulkhead which means a possible failure point and leak?
Who knows for sure?
The manufacturer. Why, BECAUSE they TEST for these and OTHER SCENARIOS.
For our purposes, whenever possible, tanks should be mounted to minimize liquid movement when in TRANSIT and while mobile.
They SHOULD be OPTIMALLY strapped down using a METAL band or hoop and QUALITY Galvanized bolts, washers and lock washers and nuts compatible with the weight/payload.
And for OUR purposes a NEW guy or veteran purchasing a NEW chemical storage tank should have the best, most RELIABLE INFORMATION, wouldn't you all agree?
We need to reference the manufacturers info on the tank and on compatiblity.
Therefore, so we do NOT CONFUSE others here with misinformation we should ALWAYS look at the MANUFACTURERS, Chemical Compatibility rating for the SPECIFIC tank we are getting ready to purchase.
So, it STANDS to reason, wouldn't you all agree that some tanks are possibly, NOT THE SAME as OTHER TANKS?
I have researched this, spoke to the manufacturers and the technical support personnel and have seen tanks fail in the field for various reasons.
From what I am reading, most others do not have the background or enough experience in various climates, over years of personal use and through seeing other systems failure points with different tanks in different scenarios to make this assumption?
Therefore, listen up, ONCE AGAIN, anyone buying a NEW tank SHOULD ALWAYS buy a tank with NO BULKHEAD in the bottom of the tank ANYWHERE. (This is for roof cleaners or those using and applying chemicals and carrying them in a MOBILE environment). If you are buying new tanks that are going to be used for Pressure Washing-Cleaning with their use PRIMARILY for water storage for use as a buffer tank then buy a tank with a pre-installed bulkhead as the gaskets will PROBABLY not see the use and constant exposure to cleaning agents that may eventually weaken or soften EDPM, SANTOPRENE, BUNA or OTHER gasket materials.
This is just common sense as it ELIMINATES the chance of ANY LEAKS occurring as there is no way for this to occur UNLESS the tank is punctured. or ruptured.
By you all that have been in business doing roof or pressure cleaning a relatively SHORT while using these tanks in this capacity and stating I haven't had this problem with leaking DOES not mean you will not in the FUTURE.
It is IMPORTANT to remember that I cleaned my first roof in the Pacific Northwest back in 1985. When did you do your first cleaning, build your first mobile unit or plumb or cut your teeth in this business?
I am really trying now and most always, to be patient, but some of the info you may think you know may not be as FACTUAL as some of you more recent cleaning contractors may think. I try hard not to offend anyone and that is not what I am trying to do now.
I am simply stating information and sticking to my guns here based on EXPERIENCE.
I have seen a lot in my roof cleaning and pressure cleaning past and all I am trying to do here is provide the best, LONG TERM SOLUTION, for someone buying and spending their hard earned dollars on a tank so that they get MAXIMUM BENEFIT and eliminate leaks down the road.
By PULLING your cleaning AGENT from THE TOP of the TANK you save yourself possible long term headaches?
And why NOT do this as it is RARE that once you buy tanks that you will need to buy them again, unless you are building another trailer or roof cleaning setup.
So why find out LATER, what could be AVOIDED by simple planning and intelligent per-planning, research and purchase the RIGHT tank for chemical storage the FIRST TIME rather than have to later, remove the bulkhead, add a new seal and reinstall?
Also, there is FACTUAL proven, Documentation that certain POLY tanks will FAIL PREMATURELY when exposed to SODIUM HYPOCHLORITE over time, i.e. splitting, cracking, checking, bulging and eventual RUPTURE.
So, please guys don't split hairs with me here or I will back all this up with an assortment of .PDF documentation,graphs, failure rates , charts, and chemical diatribe for you all to wade through to PROVE my point.
You have been in business doing roofs a relatively short time comparatively and this may be your FIRST, SECOND, or THIRD TRAILER BUILD at most.
I have participated or been around probably over 100 builds on flatbeds, open trailers, vans, enclosed trailers and have SEEN a lot of DIFFERENT SCENARIOS over time OCCUR.
Please, for the sake of the RIGHT info getting out there, can we agree that I MIGHT know SOMETHING here AND that this situation of possible leaking or tank failure MAY occur over time and that the BEST cast scenario would be that IF A PERSON wanting to buy a NEW TANK or a used TANK of ANY size may want PURCHASE one WITHOUT a PRE-INSTALLED BULKHEAD to ELIMINATE the potential of a LEAK, now or in a year and half or in FIVE YEARS in a tank being used for chemical just by SIMPLY, instead, Drilling and installing the BULKHEAD in the TOP?
And, that they may want to CONSIDER checking the CHEMICAL compatibility charts to make sure and to KNOW the materials used in the construction of the tank BEFORE purchase,RATHER than finding out after the fact they may have inadvertently or unknowingly bought a tank(s) that may not have the SPECIAL preventative compounds molded WITHIN the tank to SPECIFICALLY prevent degradation of tank materials to to SH exposure?
Enough said.
Respectfully,
David W.-
Operations Manager- Roof Clean USA
Assistant Admin.-RCIA
-- Edited by Roof Clean USA Georgia 229-227-0000 on Thursday 23rd of April 2009 07:21:05 AM