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Apple Roof Cleaning Tampa (813) 655-8777 wrote:

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GREAT roof cleaning tank info Dave

We have been DONE with Bulkheads for some time now.

I have used the BEST bulkheads on my roof cleaning tanks.

Result ?

They LEAK - ALL of them

Roof Cleaning Chemical is very aggressive and will flat RUIN your truck/trailer in a N.Y. Second

Great post and visuals for those wanting to learn the RIGHT way to feed a roof cleaning pump.

Where do you get that poly strainer ?

Care to provide a link and more info ??

 

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You are correct Chris.

You Sir,are the undisputed Don" or "Godfather" of Roof Cleaning and I respect and acknowledge that.

And since you are the "Don" and I cleaned my very first roof back in 1985 in the Pacific Northwest, maybe then I am the "Don Juan" LOL

Anyway, thanks, my Roof Cleaning Brother, for your approval of my overall methods and experience in the field.

I personally learn from you very often and value and appreciate all you write and the roof cleaning expertise and WISDOM you bring to the industry going as far back as the DELCO cleaning forums with the Hinderlighter's (Dad and son) and Larry and the old crew, MANY years ago.

Well, getting back on track about tanks and installs.

Let me expand a bit more to clarify my comments please.

In a tank that is pre-drilled for a bulkhead and with it installed from BOTTOM or side or in a tank leg from the distributor or from the factory, is a LEAK waiting for an opportunity to happen.

It is not a matter of IF, but WHEN?

Need we we mention the 70 mph U-JOINT blowing on the freeway with 2 tons of SODIUM Hypochlorite on board a flatbed truck?

Not a pretty picture and definitely not safe?

Chris, my friend, Let us expand and teach the newcomer to the trade, shall we?

Bulkheads in the BOTTOM of ANY tank that will be used for SH or SHC or Sodium Hypochlorite WILL,  in time, LEAK.

So we know why?

YES, we veterans DO know, but do you, as newcomers to the trade?

Let me explain the reason briefly....

It is all about chemical compatibility. read the CHEMICAL COMPATIBILITY CHARTS, my Roof Cleaning Brothers.

These are what most bulkhead seals are made from:

EDPM or +BUNA or plain rubber seals. These materials are "C and D" rated on the charts and are NOT recommend for any type of long term exposure to SH.

The seals are the weak link in a bulkhead, do we agree?

If they were made of VITON or TEFLON or KYNAR it would be a different story.

These materials are rated "A" rating in the charts and are very SH-resistant.

We do not use them on the BOTTOM of any new equipment build and ANYTIME we replace a tank on our own equipment we buy them (the TANKS) from the wholesaler, BULKHEAD FREE. In other words NO BULKHEADS INSTALLED.

That is why we cut the holes out ourselves and install the bulkhead from the top. (see pictures)

Yes, the POLY Bulkheads will still see Chlorine GAS and will have exposure BUT in a much more limited scope of use and will only see an occasional SPLASH of roof cleaning chemical and will never see a leak opportunity of any real consequence.

In the top of the tank that same bulkhead will see minimal strain and will not be exposed constantly to the solution we roof cleaners use.

Plus, in our case and use it is very effective for the PURPOSE we designate it for.

Therefore it will last MUCH longer.

The REASON we use a bulkhead IN THE TOP is so we effectively and positively MOUNT the draw tube and the POLY strainer on the bottom.

For more info on Veteran Roof Cleaning ideas go to my blog at : Roof-Cleaning-Georgia-Blog


-- Edited by Roof Clean USA Georgia 229-227-0000 on Sunday 26th of April 2009 05:51:08 PM

Dave you are the MAN!!! Thanks for this invaluable Info!!
Here are some pics of some badd azz tanks I passed on the road the other day at a pumping supply store in Dover DE. They look like underground tanks, but I figured I would post them for fun. This place supplies water treatment facilities so I plan to stop in and pay them a visit sometime soon.

I am printing this info out and putting it in my shop!!  The bulkhead in the top also causes less vented gas, correct???   Excellent work, after so many years of cleaning you sure do know alot.  You may have just saved me tons of money in repairs as well as our other brother here!!



-- Edited by Baltimore MD Roof Cleaning 410-482-4367 on Sunday 26th of April 2009 07:40:55 PM

Great post! I had no idea that Teflon tape was even available for seals. What's the point of high quality tanks and hoses if there's a weak link in your fittings???

DBKeifer wrote:

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Great pictures David, I have a couple of questions. Why do you have two tanks? Is one for rinsing or are they both for your chemicals? Also I've seen other guys with smaller screens or smaller openings. Why are your screen openings so big? Thanks,Doug

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 I use two tanks on commerical rig I own that are potentially for several applications in different scenarios, like, for instance, to clean very big roofs such as large tracts of apts. or townhomes or condos or even, if you do a blanket advertising campaign such as many homes in the same neighborhood. 

For those you need a lot of mix and both are filled with the LOVE.

Spread the LOVE


Also, the 2nd tank is used versatile and can function as a rinse tank or a house wash mix tank, depending on what the contractor is doing.

Softwashing with a 12v system or air diaphragm system and doing 10-20 homes may require a lot of mix so you can virtually never run short with dual 330 gallon tanks.

As far as the screens  question, to answer, we draw between 7 gpm and up to 15 gpm and if a leaf or two or even a rag or other debris accidentally finds its way into the tank and partially covers the strainer we want the strainer to catch the leaves or rag but still allow for flow without clogging.

The MAxPAss valve on ou ir pump handle up to 3/8" diameter crud that may pass into the pump so having a bigger filer/screen works in this scenario well.

Also, Smaller pumps that flOw less VOLUME mean smaller filters WILL DO THE JOB.

But, Bigger pumps with bigger flow rates keeps the chit out but still flows, if , for example, you have undiluted TSP is ine bottom of the tank.

Hope this answers your questions.

-- Edited by Roof Clean USA Georgia 229-227-0000 on Friday 18th of September 2009 01:12:42 PM

WHAT SIZE BULKHEAD ARE YOU USING ON TOP OF YOUR TANK? IF ONE USED THE PROPER A RATED MATERIAL GASKETS THAT YOU MENTIONED WOULD A BOTTOM DRAW BE SAFE TO USE. I WOULD LIKE TO USE 55 GAL POLY DRUMS.ANY INFO YOU CAN SHARE WOULD BE GREAT, THANKS DAVID!

You can use the drums and typically double your pumps intake size will work. Bulkhead them from the lid or the side near the top. Stay away from bottom feed, it will work for a while but is always a hazard that will cause a problem eventually. Every pipe in the world leaks eventually so what happens when you have 55gal of love above that pipe/fitting ??

mfddad wrote:

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THANKS FOR THE INFO FROM BALTIMORE MD ROOF. QUESTION COULD YOU USE HOSE INSIDE THE DRUM, WITH A FILTER ATTACHED TO THE END OF THE HOSE?

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You could, but how will you examine/change the filter easily ?
Make a PVC Feed tube going into drum, with an elbow, attach filter there, then attach hose to your pump.

Makes changing/unclogging filter easier.

 

Great info Dave, Mine are the same.

I can add one thing -
That crapy little piece of rubber that holds the lid of the chem tank on, GET RID OF IT.
It will break off and fall into the tank, and break apart into little pieces and clog pumps.

We have a UDOR that has the same valves for 3 years running. After every day a flush 35+ gallons of water thru the pump.
Just last month I thought I was going to need a repair because the pump was pulsing. Took the pump apart and the valves had pieces of that rubber in them. 

-- Edited by Reef Property Services on Sunday 18th of October 2009 03:24:20 PM

The only problem that I see with this assembly, is your intake tube, because it doesn't reach all the  way to the bottom of the tank, leaving a lot of LOVE in the tank...