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Post Info TOPIC: Half n Half Roof


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Half n Half Roof
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Guys,

This one is a tuffy, it is a Mansard type roof approx 20 +/- years old. The top half is cedar shakes and the bottom half is shingle.  Hard to tell from the pictures, I will explain as best as I am able.  The front side has the huge black type stain on it as well as mold n algae (stain is mold). looking at the right side (with vent stack) that side does not get sun, covered with lichens n mold. The back side (pool in picture) is again covered in mold and algae.  The left side that gets all the sun both in summer and winter is stained with mold and algae. In addition the shingle spacing has increased as the shingles have shrunk.  It is missing quite a few shingles that will need to be replaced as well as the ridge type shingles on each corner.

Limited knowledge, I know from reading it is a 3 step process: clean, brighten, seal.  This roof will not stand up to power wash on the cedar shakes, I know there is a way to do it however, after reading the posts and searching, a little guidance via PM would help, I live in FL not NC, don't worry about competition as this is probably the only cedar roof that I will ever do.  This house sits on a 7 acre compound with 7 other homes(all shingle) which will be done at the same time.

Questions;

1) Would you do the cedar first or the shingles
2) If the shingles are cleaned first, would the cedar cleaning solution mess with the shingles if they are already clean
3) Cedar first, what protection, as not to damage the shingles or cause a discoloraztion to them from the cleaning solution from the cedar shakes
4) I know that replacement shakes are needed and are already on order as well as ridge vent type corner pieces.  SS ring shank nails will be used to replace any missing / damaged shakes.
5) how would you price the job, shingle seperate from cedar.

I have an idea about the shingle cost pricing, but the cedar has me a little stumped.

Thanks for any and all help or suggestions

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Fred Winters
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Probably clean the asphalt shingles first and rinse it or return later to make it safer to walk on. The asphalt roof will get wet while working on the cedar and wet algae can be a killer to walk on. That could be a beautiful job when complete. I am concerned with the age of the asphalt and of it has bad sections that may become leaks after roof cleaning then walking on it. A close inspection oradditional charge for repairs may be required. From your description that little bit of cedar can be saved, so I will call you in a couple hours and try to help you out.

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Just spray the whole thing (Cedar and shingle) with roof mix and let mother nature rinse it as usual. If you cant hit the cedar with any pressure then this is about your best solution.

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I thought the shingles should be done first, thanks for the advice on that aspect of the project. The reason for my first thought on whether the cedar could not be done with pressure is all the wind that we have had blew many of the old cedar shakes off the roof.

I went over today late this afternoon and climbed on the roof to check it out, the asphalt is in good condition not brittle. The last person that she hired to fix the cedar, did not use proper nails (used finishing nails), hence the reason for the loose cedar shakes, getting blown off with the gusty winds.

In a closer inspection when up on the roof today, I think I can use low pressure on the shakes 300-500 psi, taking it slow so not to cause any additional damage to them. I don't mind if it takes longer I have been on this compound almost daily since October 09, fixing, installing, plumbing, painting, moving, always something for her in one of her 7 houses (cottages) as she calls them.

Bill, if you called earlier today I apologize, if I missed the call I had a fishing charter (paying customer) good day caught lots of fish, finally getting better after the cold we had this year.



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Fred Winters
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My approach would be pretty much the same as Bill's but I would do it all in one day and not return a second. It doesn't look to awfully step as I know Bill mentioned how it can get greasy up there when wet and he is so right. But I think you could pull this off all in one day and go head on, thats if your only washing only and allowing the cedar to weather naturally. If you are sealing/staining, then of course you would have to return after the moisture content was correct in the cedar shakes to perform the staining process. Lots of great products out there to use to beautify those cedar shakes. I love Cedar !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! smile

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Your right Roofie, however the lady's comment to me is "No One is able to take care of Cedar like we do in Canada", you see she is from there, comes here 6 months a year. I would like to make it right as it is a really good lead to multiple jobs. No to weather naturally (doesn't like the grey color), stain close to natural and seal so it stays bright for more than 4 months. I am researching the products to stain and seal.

-- Edited by Redfisherman on Saturday 3rd of April 2010 09:16:37 PM

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Fred Winters
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I can help you with several products that will give your customer a great looking roof and make you shine. And will last longer than a few months. Will give her years of protection !
Let me know if you need some advice or you have any questions about a certain product that you may be leaning towards. I would love to help you out in anyway I can !


-- Edited by Roofie on Saturday 3rd of April 2010 10:02:10 PM

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From my chair the asphalt doesn't look very steep, and could probably be done in either order. With that being said, I would not use the same roof mix for both shingle types. The thing to use on cedar shingles is Sodium Percarbonate mixed at about 1 cup per gallon of warm water. Then neutralize with oxalic acid mixed at 1 cup per gallon. It will give the cedar a much more natural look as opposed to the use of Sodium Hypochlorite,..which will make it look washed out and unnatural.

I will sometimes add Hydroxide to the Percarbonate for extra kick,...but taking the asphalt roof into consideration on this job, I would pass on the Hydroxide.

Jeff

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Raystown Roof Cleaning Central PA 1-800-236-0322 wrote:

From my chair the asphalt doesn't look very steep, and could probably be done in either order. With that being said, I would not use the same roof mix for both shingle types. The thing to use on cedar shingles is Sodium Percarbonate mixed at about 1 cup per gallon of warm water. Then neutralize with oxalic acid mixed at 1 cup per gallon. It will give the cedar a much more natural look as opposed to the use of Sodium Hypochlorite,..which will make it look washed out and unnatural.

I will sometimes add Hydroxide to the Percarbonate for extra kick,...but taking the asphalt roof into consideration on this job, I would pass on the Hydroxide.

Jeff



Great advise Jeff

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You guys got back to this before me that's great!! Thanks for helping Fred out, he is going to love this job after it is done.

So to answer some more of your questions I would price it as such:
.55sq. ft to clean the cedar
your normal shingle prices for the asphalt
1.25-1.55 per sq. ft to seal the cedar with one coat (sealant included) We like the Wolman's
add .35 for a second wet coat or .95 for a second dry coat depending on your product.
(Some products are two coated while wet and therefor just gone over again while still working the same spot, some need to dry meaning you will coat the whole thing and at the end start were you first started and coat it all again.
Plus your materials cost for shingles and nails.

The Cedar cleaner will not harm the asphalt shingles but the sealant may.

Here is how we would do the job
Day 1 clean the asphalt shingles on all 7 roofs.
Day 2 clean the cedar with sodium precarb or restore from envirospec then use an oxalic acid rinse for ph balance and color. (or on day one if you have time)

You will want to make a mixture that is not to strong as it will fir the wood badly if it is too strong or sits on it too long, so run a test area starting with a weak mix and add strength as needed. After your mixture sits on the cedar shingles for about 10 minutes (do not let it dry) power wash them at the lowest PSI your washer will give and still work. I have actually scene cedar cleaned with just the soap nozzle before on a 6gpm machine. Work a small area (Maybe half of a side) at a time as the longer the cleaner sits on the wood the more the wood will fir (and it will fir a little regardless). Also be aware that your cedar cleaners do not mix with SH it will foam and make both products inert. Carefully pressure wash the small area insuring that you get all exposed sides of the shakes. I like to clean a couple feet then rinse the algae and wood firs off the asphalt roof. Then clean the next area. When it is all clean ph balance with the brightening solution. Then let it dry for at least 3 solid days of sunshine before sealing. Any moisture in the wood will cause mold to grow under the sealant ruining the cedar shake. Someone here claimed in another thread that they have used a wet on wet sealant. If that really works than more power to you.

Day 3 Sealant. At APW Inc. we always paint by hand. Any manufacturer of sealants will tell you that this penetrates the wood the best. Even if you spray it you usually have to back roll/brush it anyway so whats the point of the sprayer?? We tell customers this and they hire us over the guys that spray all the time. Lay some cardboard under each working area to ensure keeping it off the asphalt and flashing. Painting by hand will generally be fairly clean and controlled anyway. In most cases you are supposed to apply sealers in weather under 80 deg F, and not in direct sunlight. That can be the hardest part.

I prefer to throw 2-3 $10hr helpers at painting and sealing for a quick job done. I would not touch a brush myself. Plenty of unemployed professional painters out there looking for some side jobs.

This is how we would do it, I am sure there are other ways. i hope this helps and sorry I missed you when I called. I hope you caught a lot of fish on your charter. Happy Easter.

I wrote this quickly before Easter brunch so If I missed anything important please point it out to help out Fred.

We always collect payment as follows
Cleaning portion @ completion of cleaning plus sealant deposit.
Sealing portion @ completion of sealant.

If you have never cleaned wood brother, try your deck first.  Cedar is not generally the best first wood experience, but your a smart cookie so do what you feel comfortable with.

-- Edited by Baltimore MD Roof Cleaning 410-482-4367 on Sunday 4th of April 2010 10:52:26 AM

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Thank you, Bill, Larry, Roofie, Walk and Jeff for all your great guidance and instruction on my upcoming project.

Bill, I will call you this afternoon, I like you have been busy this past weekend. We celebrated Easter with a sunrise on the water, with family prayer and giving thanks to our Lord, remembering our oldest son whose ashes were spread on the river, then a glorious day with the birthday boy (2 yr old grandson). Monday early we watched the Space Shuttle launch from our back patio, even though we are on the opposite coast the sky was clear, we could see the fire trail and the booster seperation, beautiful sight.

Then... off to work on the compound of my subject project. I was told that my client is considering the total cleaning package shingle and cedar. I am going Friday to PWP, for some chem's and equipment. I have an 11hp - 4gpm pressure washer with a pressure control valve and gauge, I tried last night and could get a good spray pattern at about 100psi, I will try some other tips or even buy new. My tips are so old, I have no idea what size or type, best to start new.

This client is really sensitive to smell, she can pick up on a boat that idles by her house in the canal as an old 2 stroke because of the oil and gas smell. I am going to add floramask to the cedar cleaning solution as well as the SH for the shingles.

Again, I want to thank everyone who posted with suggestions and information on how to do this job. Keep the comments coming it is a great learning experience for me and others.

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Fred Winters
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Very informative post. thanks for sharing.

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Update on the property.  Well I have worked on this property for 7 months now and we are close to doing the roof (main house), matter of fact we ordered the shakes and new ridge shakes.  However, this property did not have a deck or patio for me to show the homeowner what her roof would look like after the process of cleaning with sodium percarbonate and neutralizing with oxalic acid and finally sealing with a natural cedar color sealer.  This is only a fence (cedar) however, it is a lead in to the main house and the remaining homes on the property. I have completed house washes, soffetts, gutters, driveways, boat docks (composite), everything but the roofs.  I want to thank everyone who has been an inspiration and freely giving of information to help me through the process needed to get this done.  On a side note in the background on one of the photos is a gezabo, my project for tomorrow to rebuild it and "clean the roof" and also start on the roofs of the other homes  on the property.  Homeowner comment of the day "This fence looks like new, it's better looking now than when my Ex put it up originally".
Photo 1 - Original color,  Photo 2 - 1st section cleaned, Photo 3 - Sodium Percarb working, Photo 4 Completed - cleaned and sealed

-- Edited by Redfisherman on Thursday 3rd of June 2010 09:09:01 PM

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Fred Winters
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cbanuva wrote:

Very informative post. thanks for sharing.




 



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Good looking Fred. Get those roofs !!

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