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Post Info TOPIC: Are you Building Your own roof cleaning Rig? These are RCIA recommendations


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Are you Building Your own roof cleaning Rig? These are RCIA recommendations
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Hello to All the BROTHERHOOD of fellow Roof cleaners and Newbies-

If you have decided you have the skill and the patience to build your own roof spraying / treatment trailer, truck, van or flatbed then you should start a SEPARATE thread or topic and DEDICATE it to YOUR individual build out.

Why should you start a new thread or topic in the EQUIPMENT BUILD section of the RCIA?

Because if you do, we can ALL offer you help on getting it "dialed in" and working "just right".

Frankly, practically ANYTHING any of you can or will build will be something someone else before you has thought up.

Sorry to burst some peoples bubble but "Most of the GREAT IDEAS are taken BEFORE you thought of them.

Most people are just re-inventing the wheel.

You don't need to make so darned HARD on yourself.

By posting CLEAR, accurately described pictures of EACH process of your BUILDOUT then EVERYONE here that has experience in building spray rigs can jump on board and tell or at least steer you in the right direction on how to streamline your build or hose runs or manifold setup or spray wands or ball valves and etc.

Why beat yourself up by racking your brain for answers that are already out there and have proven themselves to work on others rigs.

You owe it to yourself and your sanity to post pictures and brief accurate descriptions of each process of your particular build so everyone can pitch in and offer help and guidance.

You will do yourself a real disservice by trying to keep your "SPECIAL" build under wraps as you will have a much harder time than necessary as compared to if you show some of the veterans in the field what it is your trying to accomplish. MAny times what you have been scratching your head about for several days can take only several minutes to answer if you ask the RIGHT person the proper question.

Bill of Accurate Pressure Wash said this in another thread:

"I HIGHLY RECOMEND THAT NEW FOLKS JUST BUILDING THEIR FIRST RIGS START POSTING BEFORE THEY SPRAY IN ORDER TO AVOID THESE ISSUES>"

I agree with Bill Booz of Accurate PW.- Post your pic and your outline of your problems in picture form and we will all try to pitch in and help RESOLVE them.

Good Luck on your Roof Cleaning and rig building Journey.

To Success and Safety,

Dave


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Thanks Dave. I have been using a delavan 5850 and decided to upgrade to an air system. I have a Titan Industrial 12 cfm twin torpedo air compressor with 8 gallons of tank. I am searching for another tank to add for a reservoir. I have a yamada ndp 15 poly and 3/4 hose... water seperator 2 regulators and my nozzels from my delevan setup. I dont have it mounted yet but did test it Friday and was impressed. I will try to get some pictures on here.
Thanks again

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Thanks Dave, I am glad you agree.
Sorry I didn't write a thread to the same effect sooner.
I like very much your statement that these new rig builders are not creating some new grand invention, and have no reason to hide their rigs.

To All members who do not post and just read:
Some of the certified instructors here use air some use electric, both will work and produce proffesional results. The rigs are already discussed here. If your competition sees your or not, it dosn't matter as we will just tell them how to build it anyway. So yuou should learn from the vets here now and save yourself some catch-up later. Ask questions and post and save yourself some headaches as well as show your support to the proud men and women that are helping you for free.

Chris,
awesome bro.
Rinse that poly pump for sure, and keep the intake of your compressor as far away from the chlorine gas as possible.
My compressor is still next to my tank, but I am in the process of aquiring a flatbed.
This is some of what, the vets here helped me with that instantlly saved me money, by saving my equipment damage.
Specificlly the distance of my air compressor from the chlorine, I have to thank Dave for.


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Accuwash LLC

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Baltimore MD Roof Cleaning 410-482-4367 wrote:

Thanks Dave, I am glad you agree.
Sorry I didn't write a thread to the same effect sooner.
I like very much your statement that these new rig builders are not creating some new grand invention, and have no reason to hide their rigs.

To All members who do not post and just read:
Some of the certified instructors here use air some use electric, both will work and produce proffesional results. The rigs are already discussed here. If your competition sees your or not, it dosn't matter as we will just tell them how to build it anyway. So yuou should learn from the vets here now and save yourself some catch-up later. Ask questions and post and save yourself some headaches as well as show your support to the proud men and women that are helping you for free.

Chris,
awesome bro.
Rinse that poly pump for sure, and keep the intake of your compressor as far away from the chlorine gas as possible.
My compressor is still next to my tank, but I am in the process of aquiring a flatbed.
This is some of what, the vets here helped me with that instantlly saved me money, by saving my equipment damage.
Specificlly the distance of my air compressor from the chlorine, I have to thank Dave for.




Always remember guys, Chlorine is a GAS and a Liquid.
Chlorine Fumes sucked into a compressor will RUIN it in no time !!
Even Mobil One Synthetic Oil will not save you !!

OOPS, there goes another of my secrets !!

Use SYNTHETIC Compressor Oil - Hint - Mobil One !!


 



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for the guys running compressors.. Yes, use synthetic oil. I would suggest if you can find it, go with royal purple. I have worked in industrial maint. for 25 years, and we have tried all the oils. The best, and longest lasting oil we found that works the best at reducing operating temps, and extending the time between rebuilds on air compressors is royal purple synthetic oil.

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confuseThanks for the info but it would be hard for me to change been usin Mobil One for 30yrs, i heard Royal purple is good stuff

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AWWW and here i was planning on using 30 weight non detergent oil. Are those really compressor oils or 30 wight ND??

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Accuwash LLC

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What reg's or filter system should I use for my ndp 15 and Ing rand 11.8cfm compressor?

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K & J Pressure Cleaning LLC
Tampa FL Pressure Washing & Roof Cleaning
813-407-9077




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confuseBaltimore MD Roof Cleaning 410-482-4367 wrote:

AWWW and here i was planning on using 30 weight non detergent oil. Are those really compressor oils or 30 wight ND??




  This what i used in the past with no problems Mobil Rarus sae30 on industrail screw compressors



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Apple Roof Cleaning Tampa (813) 655-8777 wrote:

Baltimore MD Roof Cleaning 410-482-4367 wrote:

Thanks Dave, I am glad you agree.
Sorry I didn't write a thread to the same effect sooner.
I like very much your statement that these new rig builders are not creating some new grand invention, and have no reason to hide their rigs.

To All members who do not post and just read:
Some of the certified instructors here use air some use electric, both will work and produce proffesional results. The rigs are already discussed here. If your competition sees your or not, it dosn't matter as we will just tell them how to build it anyway. So yuou should learn from the vets here now and save yourself some catch-up later. Ask questions and post and save yourself some headaches as well as show your support to the proud men and women that are helping you for free.

Chris,
awesome bro.
Rinse that poly pump for sure, and keep the intake of your compressor as far away from the chlorine gas as possible.
My compressor is still next to my tank, but I am in the process of aquiring a flatbed.
This is some of what, the vets here helped me with that instantlly saved me money, by saving my equipment damage.
Specificlly the distance of my air compressor from the chlorine, I have to thank Dave for.




Always remember guys, Chlorine is a GAS and a Liquid.
Chlorine Fumes sucked into a compressor will RUIN it in no time !!
Even Mobil One Synthetic Oil will not save you !!

OOPS, there goes another of my secrets !!

Use SYNTHETIC Compressor Oil - Hint - Mobil One !!


 



Luckily the only place i have left on my 7x14 trailer is as far from my roof tank i could get for my compressor. Ill also be rinsing like crazy. I just couldnt justify the price for kynar right now and I probably wouldnt sleep at night if I didnt rinse it anyways.

I guess this means a few of us may be changing oil tommorrow??lol

 



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Kory wrote:

What reg's or filter system should I use for my ndp 15 and Ing rand 11.8cfm compressor?



These are similar to what I use on our rigs

Go to ebay and look these up

MOISTURE FILTER W/ REGULATOR FOR AIRBRUSH/ COMPRESSOR

Item number: 370190172486

Item number: 390048026468



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Thanks for the info fellas

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Sarasota FL, Roof Cleaning
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Here are a few pictures of my setup so far. I still have a ways to go.

Currently I have a 10'  3/8 air hose to run between my compressor and pump. I am looking for a 30 gallon or so air tank to mount above the compressor (sadly we sent 3 or 4 old burned up craftsman ac to the scrap yard last winter) then I would like to run an exact length of air hose up to it. Then my second regulator and another hose cut to length back down to the pump. I would also like to find a larger air seperator to replace the one coming out of the compressor.

A hose reel is still a distant dream. For now the stakes will do. I have the hose setup to connect directly to the pump. This I dont like. No telling what one hard yank from some yahoo (me or helper) would do. I ran out of poly tubing or I would have ran a
2' length down to edge of trailer with hose connection on end screwed down. I have room on the back rail of my trailer over my delevan for a hose reel. Eventually i can run hose along trailer floor under tool box to pump from reel.

I kept my delevan 5850 plummed in to transfer chemical and for back up. It is plummed with 1/2 ID as is pwer. The yamadas 3/4 line attaches to these But for the yamadas chemical line I ran 3/4 ID connected to 2" draw pipe.

I am limited in the amount of chems I can carry. Behind the 525 water tank I have a 60 gal drum for my roof mix and a 30 for my house wash mix. So far I have used my 30 for a SH tank if I know Ill need more than 60 gallons of apple cider. If need be I can replace the 30 with another 60.

I also took another piece of 2" pipe and made a second draw pipe for transfering from one tank to another or for pumping from a barrel in the shop.

Alright guys this is my start.....

Ill try to take some more pictures

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Ah ha! Found an air tank. 33 gallon off a burned up craftman. I thought we had haulded them all off. This one was half buried in a thicket but a little work and itll have a new life.


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Just remember. You never need something until the day after you throw it away. At least that is how it works for me.

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Looks pretty good Chris!! Way to copy my air compressor, lol!!! Just kidding. Are you top feeding from that tank??? The bulkhead on bottom will leak eventually if not, but I bet you already knew that, lol. Way to cram it all in there. Looks really good. I especially like the placement of your pump as it seems to be fairly protected form the sun and from being stepped on.

Way to go bro.

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Aw come on Bill. Stop picking on me lol. I think I read youre running a dewalt...? Mines a Titan Indusrial I found for a steal at an auction last winter. Thats the main thing that sold me on skipping a fatboy upgrade and going straight to air. I already had half the puzzle.

The large water tank does have a bulkhead fitting and when it leaks "oh well just a little spillt water" I only pull it full when necessary. My truck will pull it to the moon and back but that poor trailer gets a back ache.

I am pulling from the tops of my chemical drums. I would love to have a larger roof mix tank but am out of room. So far 2 60 gallon drums of apple cider is all ive needed on one job.
It has been fairly easy to carry Sh in my 30 gallon drum and transfer over to make a second roof mix.

It did work out well with on my pump placement. It wouldve fit even farther underneath but I wanted to keep it easy to get to.

My next steps are to plumb larger water line out of the bulkhead of my water tank so I can run my roof pump and pwer at the same time.

Then I am going to plumb a 33 gallon air tank in. I have to decide if i want mount it above the compressor...parallel and slightly offset over the water hose to leave clearance to the gas cap.

OR moving my trailer jack foward and mounting the tank on the tongue( I think this may look better but who cares about that lol)

OR moving the toolbox to the tongue and putting the tank beside the compressor. This would open up some valuble space for who knows what. It would still require moving the jack foward and I need to do some measuring to make this would work.

But this can simmer for the weekend.... Its time to get out and enjoy Memorial Day Weekend

Some doorhanging/ demos/ sales???/a little lake going/and most importantlty remembering what this weekend is really for.

Thanks for the tips Bill

and to anyone else with any pointers all are appreciated.



-- Edited by Roof Cleaning Arkansas on Thursday 21st of May 2009 05:19:43 PM

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Maybe you can put a taco stand in the extra space....LOL

Have you thought about building platforms for the equipment or tanks so you can have one above the other? Tanks on bottom and pumps on top. Makes it easier to work on. doubles your space. Don't put something too wide on the tongue as it will interfere with your turning capability. But you have probably already thought of this. Rig looks good.

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Thanks Pat. Thats what Im thinking about doing with the extra air tank above the compressor.
The only catch I can see with chemical tanks below your equipment would be the fumes rising up. But you are right about making the most of every bit of space.

I am going to do some measuring on moving the toolbox out to the tongue. It looks like it MIGHT work but i wont know for sure until I check it out.

Oh and 4 door chevrolets dont know what turning radius isbiggrin

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Roof Cleaning Arkkansas wrote:

Oh and 4 door chevrolets dont know what turning radius isbiggrin


 My guess would be somewhere between Tennessee and Oklahoma on that turning radius.laughing.gif



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