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Post Info TOPIC: Got a tank in from tank-depot - question. . .


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Date: Mar 7, 2009
Got a tank in from tank-depot - question. . .
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hey guys,
I have my complete setup here at my shop. Wired up the 12v fatboy like bob at PT does on his fatboy bandit. Cant wait to see it kicking, but before i do . . .

I got a 100 gallon poly transport tank form tank depot -
and it has 2 3/4" drain bulk holes with red plastic plugs in it. What can I do with these? The tech specs dont show these? How can I make it SH proof. Should I get them plastic welded shut? I spent good $$$ including shipping and cant really ship it back?hmm

PS after taking a closer look- the holes are pretty deep threads molded. Perhaps I could put a long threaded plug with teflon tape in it?

Zack

-- Edited by mobilewashexpress at 08:51, 2009-03-07

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Zachary Imus Owner - Mobile Wash Express, LLC (716) 664-WASH


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Hi Zack, I myself would want a bottom drian for clean out, most tanks have viton or epdm seals ( gaskets) on the lid and drian depending what chemical chart i look at they both seem ok ,viton seems to be better, they all have thier life span with sh so keep an extra gasket on hand. have fun Vinny

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Roof Cleaning Long Island New York (631) 220 6985


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Zack, find a threaded ball valve to fit the outlet. keep it closed until you need to flush the tank. Make things real easy.

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Decent outfit there, I've gotten a power washing tank or two from them myself. Shipping isn't a dream, but unless there's a local retailer, good luck finding them cheaper anywhere else....
The tank description states "Molded in 3/4" NPT outlet standard.", so I don't know why it came with two. I think the best course of action us to head to home depot or lowes, and get a 3/4" cap (probably PVC) and insert a garden hose gasket and screw it on to the tank tightly. If you really want to be sure it's water tight, wrap some teflon tape on the threads before tightening it down.
Good luck!

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Sorry for reposting, but I dug through my e-mail contacts. CGlen@Tank-depot.com was my customer service contact there. Maybe shoot them an e-mail for other options.

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Thanks again everyone! I never thought of having to flush the tank? I think I will put a plastic plug with gaskets on one, and a ball valve with gasket on the other for cleaning.

Yeah shipping was like 80$, but i can see why they have to!

How do you all get your SH from the drum to the tank? An electric pump? Thanks in advance for advice!smile



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Zachary Imus Owner - Mobile Wash Express, LLC (716) 664-WASH


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Yes, I use my dual 12V Delavan 5850 pumps.

Together they push 10gpm open flow with no nozzles. I'm looking forward to plumbing my dual FATBOYs together when my other pumps die.

The dual FATBOYs will push open flow with no nozzles, 14gpms!

I fill the bleach first, then water, to rinse the pumps and hoses out.

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mobilewashexpress wrote:

hey guys,
I have my complete setup here at my shop. Wired up the 12v fatboy like bob at PT does on his fatboy bandit. Cant wait to see it kicking, but before i do . . .

I got a 100 gallon poly transport tank form tank depot -
and it has 2 3/4" drain bulk holes with red plastic plugs in it. What can I do with these? The tech specs dont show these? How can I make it SH proof. Should I get them plastic welded shut? I spent good $$$ including shipping and cant really ship it back?hmm

PS after taking a closer look- the holes are pretty deep threads molded. Perhaps I could put a long threaded plug with teflon tape in it?

Zack

-- Edited by mobilewashexpress at 08:51, 2009-03-07



Here are some thoughts on this topic ?


Plug the hole or holes with an appropriate Kynar Plug if, or when you can find one.

Do a Google search on Kynar plugs or bulkheads in your Inside Hole Diameter.

Next time you and anyone else is buying tanks for Roof Cleaning, MAKE SURE and do yourself a favor and ASK the supplier if there are already pre-installed bulkhead fittings already on the tank. You can choose to NOT have these installed.

If you can and especially if you are having a TANK drop shipped or sent by freight to you, make sure to get a tank or TANKS with NO bulkheads or fittings at the bottom whatsoever and therefore you will ELIMINATE that as a POTENTIAL SOURCE for LEAKS.

By always drawing from the top and by being careful what goes into and out of the tank you will prolong pump life and minimize spraying problems
and you will never have to replace bulkhead fiitings or SEALS as there will be none to EVER fail.

LEAKING BULKHEADS can CORRODE metal (exposed, unprotected Steel especially)and eat paint FAST and can make your trailer become UNSAFE by leaking onto axles, brakelines, drivelines (on flatbed trucks) even rusting out drivelines and U-Joints. Be careful with leaks, theyt can be MORE then just an environmental issue, they can be hazardous to your health if not resolved quickly or avoided entirely.

Some use a Poly screen or pool leaf scoop or SS colander when filling your tanks from the lid when or if possible.

It is better to keep debris out of your tank. To rinse your tank you can reverse the flow on a POLY shop vac after your tank is empty and SUCK the debris in the bottom in the vac with a long suction wand and vaccum hose.

Rinse everything thoroughly so the SH doeasn't have a chance to chemically eat away your shop vac ( buy on on sale and expect it to fail eventually from this type of use. You will not have to rinse your tank very often as long as you find a way to filter everything that you can that you put into it.

I like to put a PVC draw tube from the top and down to about 1"- 2" from the bottom of the tank. If possible put a poly agitator end on the bottom of the tube or screen the chemical mix from the tank to your pump. That will save future problems down the line with clogging and nozzles getting Chit stuck in them.

Another way to clean the tank is to get a electric trash pump from Norhtern tool or Tractor Supply or anywhere they sell a inexpensive poly impellor trash pump and just rinse your tank (after using up almost all the chemical at your last job or diluting what is left so it becomes a VERY WEAK concentration well and then have a separate small tank and suck up any trash and debris with the trash pump and then send that material you sucked up into another tank you earmark as your cleanout tank and then rinse it good afterward.

These are just some ideas and suggestions, there are many more and I encourage all others to submit their ideas here as well.

Just some ideas and some advice from experience. Hope this helps.

Regards,

David W.


-- Edited by Roof Clean USA Georgia 229-227-0000 at 20:06, 2009-03-08

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Date: Mar 8, 2009
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Hi Dave,
Can you please tell me is PVC and PVC glue gonna hold out on my drain??
(My tank has one already until I replace it with a larger one)
And if you can maybe give me a list of approved materials for this you have tried like, rubbers, plastics, metals, valves, valve seats and gromets?
Are pretty much all plastics gonna last? Just not rubbers?
How does copper react to the love?
This will save me alot of further questions on these materials as I build my system.
Perhaps we should post this info in a new topic specified for sustainable system materials.

-- Edited by Baltimore MD Roof Cleaning 410-482-4367 at 23:22, 2009-03-08

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Bill Booz

Accuwash LLC

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Bill, take it down and get it welded. YES, plastic and poly tanks can be welded, I have one!

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"Next time you and anyone else is buying tanks for Roof Cleaning, MAKE SURE and do yourself a favor and ASK the supplier if there are already pre-installed bulkhead fittings already on the tank. You can choose to NOT have these installed.
"
First, confirm that there are any standard inlets, then request that they be shipped uninstalled (loose)...However on the tank in question, the outlet is molded-in.... as in, it's part of the mold which cannot be changed (believe me, I've tried).

"
Can you please tell me is PVC and PVC glue gonna hold out on my drain??"
I dunno man. I've used PVC primer and glue trying to glue a Polypropylene nipple to a PVC fitting......held them together as well as dried sugar-water. I don't think anything sticks very well to polyethylene, which is why couplings need to be welded in. Cant hurt to add it when sealing up the tank, but definitely use thread-seal tape.


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Date: Mar 10, 2009
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Baltimore MD Roof Cleaning 410-482-4367 wrote:

Hi Dave,
Can you please tell me is PVC and PVC glue gonna hold out on my drain??
(My tank has one already until I replace it with a larger one)
And if you can maybe give me a list of approved materials for this you have tried like, rubbers, plastics, metals, valves, valve seats and gromets?
Are pretty much all plastics gonna last? Just not rubbers?
How does copper react to the love?
This will save me alot of further questions on these materials as I build my system.
Perhaps we should post this info in a new topic specified for sustainable system materials.

-- Edited by Baltimore MD Roof Cleaning 410-482-4367 at 23:22, 2009-03-08



PVC will hold up, for a while, nothing is forever, especially in the roof cleaning trades. Kynar and Teflon are about the most impervious to most chemicals especially, the LOVE.

Teflon and Kynar both have an "A" rating for chemical resistency. Any metal will be attacked by SH. Better to use plastics, santoprene, Viton, EDPM, but all these are not going to last very long.

Go to Hypro Pumps or UDOR and check there chemical compatability charts.

Snyder tanks website has a great deal of info on what plastics and Poly and rubbers work and do not work with SH.

"Perhaps we should post this info in a new topic specified for sustainable system materials."

Good Idea, do it so it comes up agin to everyone's attention, Bill.




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guest

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Date: Mar 10, 2009
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Thanks Brother I will post the info tommorow in a new thread. And thanks for your experiences with this guys

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Bill Booz

Accuwash LLC

Cell-240-425-2845

 

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