Wanted to post this in photo form to help those who want to charge batteries on the go for the 12 volt pumps.
This can be adapted for the trailer or the truck, providing it is 1999 or newer or has factory wiring and is set up to tow a trailer, boat or whatever you have with brakes or not.
Also wanted to apologize to hoovermanuver and classicrider for not getting this sent via PM or out earlier, I didn't forget just busy, in a good way.
I have used this system to charge my boat trolling batteries to and from the ramp and on long trips, it works, in addition to my marine 12V deep cycle for my roof pump. Check out my other posts in the open section of the forum for more complete information.
Note: As a precautionary measure, use electrical tape around the screw connections for the Anderson plug wires, then put tape around all the wires on the outside. Do this just in case someone decides to disconnect the plug by the wires and not the plug from the truck connection.
-- Edited by Redfisherman on Tuesday 16th of November 2010 05:16:10 PM
Great post Fred. Do you use a battery isolator/switch or disconnect that Anderson connection when the pumps are in use to prevent draining the truck batteries? Or are neither even necessary with this configuration?
Guess it is force of habit, with the boat always just twisted the connections apart when I launched the boat. With the trailer, I twist them apart as a safety consideration so not to feed back to the truck or as you say to drain the battery. Spoke with Rex (PWP) one night when he delivered chems to me, he said I needed an isolator or just for the sake of simplicity twist them apart. I would say if you have the room or are doing a new set up use a marine battery switch ON / OFF that way you can be charging and when you get to your customer just flip it off and use only the 12v for your pump. If you have a trailer set up, twist them apart. If a truck is self contained an on/off isolator switch.
Lived in Independent Hills on the curve of 234 and 619 from 1981 to 1993 when I retired and moved to FLorida. Worked at Vint Hill, my old unit is still in NOVA and still unnamed, guess you know that story being from there.
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Fred Winters Home Maintenance Services 941.628.9558
Guess it is force of habit, with the boat always just twisted the connections apart when I launched the boat. With the trailer, I twist them apart as a safety consideration so not to feed back to the truck or as you say to drain the battery. Spoke with Rex (PWP) one night when he delivered chems to me, he said I needed an isolator or just for the sake of simplicity twist them apart. I would say if you have the room or are doing a new set up use a marine battery switch ON / OFF that way you can be charging and when you get to your customer just flip it off and use only the 12v for your pump. If you have a trailer set up, twist them apart. If a truck is self contained an on/off isolator switch.
Lived in Independent Hills on the curve of 234 and 619 from 1981 to 1993 when I retired and moved to FLorida. Worked at Vint Hill, my old unit is still in NOVA and still unnamed, guess you know that story being from there.
Thank you Fred. And for you other RCIA boaters out there, unless you have LED trailer lights, or truly waterproof light housings, always unplug your trailer connector MINUTES (or longer) before launching. Otherwise you'll continue to blow light bulbs (hot bulb + cold water = busted bulb
Those hi amp isolator switches are spendy. I wonder how long they'd hold up to corrosion from SH? Fred, I'm more interested in this set up for my trolling batteries than for my roof rig I haven't traveled more than about 40 minutes one way (max) for roof cleaning. Not sure that's enough time to get me charged back up. I think I'll experiment with it over the winter. Thanks again.
I live right off of 619(!) And Vint Hill is now a PUD, all private too. Parts of it haven't changed at all though. I like to walk my dog around there. It 'takes me back' as they say.
An unnamed, NOVA based unit.....The stories that you could tell Fed. Thank you for your service to our country.
Thanks for doing all that Fred. It's pretty easy now with your first few posts and this. I wasn't in any hurry since the trailer will be worked on over the winter and early spring. This is the way to go.
For your boat: The way mine is wired to charge on the go when towing. Wires come from the bow (anchor locker, extra stored) with enough lead to reach the trailer plug. Back through a wiring tube to the trolling battery box area, the positive wire goes to a 50 AMP(because of trolling motor) fuse then to the positive terminal on the battery, the negative direct to the trolling battery (usually #1 on a 24v system in parallel). I have an onboard charging system for when I am home to top off the trolling batteries for my boat. Depending on the time you travel(about 45min) it will top them off or when you arrive home your charging time will be reduced considerably.
Hope this helps, can also be used for 12V pump batteries, wire direct, used a 30 AMP fuse in waterproof holder then to the battery. When stopped and working on a roof disconnect battery plug (Anderson) from tow vehicle. This insures that you will not toast any wires on the tow vehicle (safety) always think safety - Murphy's Law.
Thank you to for your service too, we all felt a need for our country and were happy to keep our families safe. even those we disagree with. It's their right, this is America. A good friend of mine for 40 plus years and our former unit SGM from the antenna field wrote a few songs and has a web site. It would be good for all to visit and listen to them (note - you can listen for free) site is : yourcountrycares(dot)com.
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Fred Winters Home Maintenance Services 941.628.9558